From Citadel Stones to Cave Bars and Dessert Stars

There are journeys that fill your passport—and then there are journeys that fill your soul. Jordan, from the very first moment, has felt like a soul journey. A place of layers, legacy and living history—each step has been a walk through time, each moment a call back to something older, deeper, wilder.

As I left the vibrant hum of Amman behind, the first stop was the iconic Amman Citadel—perched high atop Jabal al-Qala’a, one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world. Standing at this ancient acropolis, with the Jordanian flag fluttering proudly above, I was reminded just how many civilisations had left their mark here. From the Bronze Age through the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad periods, each stone seemed to whisper stories of resilience and reign.

The Temple of Hercules still stands proudly—partially intact but deeply powerful—surrounded by the remnants of Roman columns and crumbling yet majestic Umayyad palaces. I paused beneath the fluttering flag, looking out at the city stretching below, the breeze carrying with it the echoes of centuries past. To walk where others once walked is to feel time collapse into presence.

History isn’t behind us—it lives within us.

From this mountaintop, I reflected on how civilizations have come and gone—yet here I was, another traveller adding her footsteps to the ancient stone.

The journey continued to Mount Nebo, a sacred site woven into biblical tradition and steeped in powerful perspective. According to the Book of Deuteronomy, it was here that the Prophet Moses stood and gazed out upon the Promised Land before his passing. To stand in that same sacred place, looking out across the Jordan River Valley toward Jericho—the oldest city in the world—and even catching a faint glimpse of the Dead Sea and Jerusalem in the hazy distance, was utterly surreal.

The panoramic view from the mountaintop was breathtaking: the shimmering Dead Sea, the outlines of Jericho and the promise of Jerusalem beyond.

It felt like standing on the edge of something sacred and timeless. There was a hushed reverence to the space—like time slowed just enough to let you really breathe it in.

I found myself silently whispering thanks.

For the moment. For the view. For the privilege of presence.

It felt like standing at the edge of something sacred and timeless, where the past and present met under the same sky.

After a full day of exploring, we arrived at The Old Village Resort Petra—a peaceful haven nestled in the rocky hills just outside the famed archaeological site. The sandstone buildings, adorned with local artistry, felt like an extension of the land itself. The warm welcome, peaceful courtyards, and views that stretched across the Petra mountains made it the perfect place to unwind and reflect. As golden light bathed the hills and the setting sun lit the mountains in soft pink and amber tones, the resort became a sanctuary—one that held us gently, offering calm and comfort after a full day of exploration.

Later that evening, as the sun slipped below the horizon, we wandered down to a place I’d been excited to visit for years—The Cave Bar. Said to be the oldest bar in the world, it’s carved into a 2,000-year-old Nabataean tomb. The atmosphere was surreal—low lighting casting flickering shadows on ancient stone walls, music humming gently through the corridors and travelers from all over the globe exchanging stories over drinks.

It was one of those rare places where time folds in on itself—where ancient meets alive, where modern conversations echo through sacred stone. There was something wildly beautiful about the way past and present seemed to dance together, like toasting history one sip at a time.

Yesterday was Petra day.

I laced up my shoes, heart wide open, and stepped into a dream I have held for as long as I can remember. The anticipation pulsed through me like a drumbeat. To finally walk through that narrow canyon—the Siq—with its towering sandstone walls shifting from orange to pink to deep crimson with every step, was like stepping into another world. I felt the magic building with every step. Then—there it was.
The Treasury.
Grand, golden and glowing in the morning light.

Standing in front of that iconic façade, carved into rose-red stone, I felt time fold in on itself. It was everything I had imagined and more. I soaked in the beauty, the grandeur, the stillness. Channeling my inner Indiana Jones, I let the mystery, majesty and magnitude of Petra move me.

The city carved into stone.

The stories held in the walls.

The sense that I was walking through history with every breath.

We wandered further through the ancient city—past the Obelisk Tomb, with its striking blend of Nabataean and Egyptian influences, and statues of Al-Qama (the moon goddess) and Atargatis (goddess of prosperity).

In a quiet moment, I looked up and spotted two mountain goats perched impossibly high on the rocks above—a reminder of how life always finds its place, even in the most sacred and rugged terrain.

Tombs, temples & theatres all chiseled into the rock with care, skill and spiritual power. Petra is not just seen—it is felt.

From here, it was time to venture even deeper south into the Wadi Rum desert for an overnight stay beneath the stars. Known as the Valley of the Moon, this vast and otherworldly landscape is made up of towering sandstone cliffs, soft red sands and ancient petroglyphs etched by time and nature.

The silence of the sand, the glittering night sky, the rustling breeze—it all felt like a sacred story waiting to be told. It’s a place that silences you in the best way—reminding you that awe doesn’t always need words.

Tonight brought a new adventure: a camel ride beneath the desert sky, through the soft dunes. To be totally honest—I felt more uncomfortable than I would have liked. The bumpiness of the ride made me feel uneasy. I connected with my breath and tried to push through, but in a twist of fate and grace, I was lucky enough to get off and walk barefoot through the cool desert sand. Side by side with the camel handler, I led our little caravan of camels, feeling the earth and cool sand beneath my feet and the stillness of the landscape around me.

There was something incredibly grounding, almost meditative about moving through the desert this way—barefoot, slow, open-hearted and present.

The quiet crunch of sand, the rhythm of our movement, the way the fading sunlight turned the dunes golden—it was a moment I’ll never forget.

Sometimes the most magical parts of a journey aren’t planned.

They arrive when you say yes to your body, honour your discomfort and discover unexpected beauty just beyond it.

As the stars began to twinkle above and the night wrapped itself around us like a warm blanket, I knew this would be one of those evenings I would carry with me forever. There’s something about the desert—its silence, its strength, its sacredness—that stays with you long after you have left.

I have always believed the sand speaks softly, but clearly—if you slow down enough to listen.

This journey continues to unfold like an ancient scroll—each destination revealing more layers of history, heart, and soul. I’ve always believed the sand speaks—softly, but clearly—if you slow down enough to listen. This adventure is awakening something ancient and alive within me. A remembering. A reverence. A rhythm.

What places or moments have stirred something ancient within you—something beyond words, but deeply known? What do they whisper when you truly listen?

Tomorrow we continue on to the coastal town of Aqaba, where the desert meets the sea. I am already dreaming of the turquoise waters of the Red Sea, the vibrant energy of a new city waiting to be explored, and our stay at the Intercontinental Hotel Aqaba—where the rhythm of the waves will carry us into the next chapter of this unfolding story. I know that after lunch at the Ayla Café, I will be called to float in the water of the Intercontinental pool—sun-kissed, salt-laced and ready to soak in every moment.

I am excited to see what the next chapter of this adventure holds and I am eager to see and feel what it reveals.